The south swell has arrived at Sano and it's fairly sized.
Unfortunately the water temperature dropped (54°F / 12°C), to cold to surf with a spring suit.
I had to come back in after 30minutes.
I had to come back in after 30minutes.
Here is Jeff Quam riding with style.
a nice left shoulder at the point with a south swell
Stoked, but frozen....
And it's about time to go to "Church"
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